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INEBOLU'S CULTURE AND ART FESTIVAL
When it comes to the western half of the Black Sea coast it's Sinop and Amasra that hold all the trump cards as regards the truly ancient.
 Kategori |
: TOURISM |
 Yorum Sayısı |
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 Okunma |
: 2005 |
 Tarih |
: 12.07.2010 |
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When it comes to the western half of the Black Sea coast it's Sinop and Amasra that hold all the trump cards as regards the truly ancient.
Samsun, however, has started playing a great hand by emphasizing its part in the Turkish War of Independence to jazz up its old image as a shabby industrial port. Now İnebolu is getting in on the act, too, making much of its fame as “Yiğit İnebolu (heroic İnebolu),” an epithet bestowed on it by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in memory of the part it also played in the struggle to free Turkey from opportunistic Western invaders.
First things first. Where exactly is İnebolu? Well, it's right on the coast, roughly midway between Sinop and Amasra, and it too is a port, albeit a much smaller one than Samsun. İnebolu's day in the sun came during the War of Independence when arms were smuggled from İstanbul by sea, and then had to be conveyed 95 kilometers overland to Kastamonu. The locals gladly turned their hands to the task, led by one Hamamcı Kadı Salih Reis, an old man in his 70s who nevertheless lugged heavy trunks of weapons ashore along with the women and children. Salih Reis is commemorated by a sea-facing statue right in the middle of town, while he appears again leading a line of heavily laden women in a frieze very close to the local museum. The weapons were then put into carts pulled by water buffaloes to start their long journey over the mountains to Kastamonu; another statue commemorates that process on the road heading up from the bridge across the İnebolu River to the new otogar.
In 1921 İnebolu was itself attacked and put up a sturdy resistance, thus earning itself the “yiğit” title. More than that, though, in 1924 Atatürk awarded the city itself the İstiklal Madalyası (Independence Medal) in memory of its efforts. İnebolu having thus impressed itself upon him, he visited it in 1925 and there made a speech trumpeting his desire that the Turks should modernize their dress, in particular by shedding their fezes in favor of Western-style hats. “Bu serpuşun adına şapka denir” (This type of headgear is called a hat), he said in words that are plastered on signs all over town.
To help visitors get to grips with its modern history İnebolu has opened a museum that is easy for foreign visitors to miss since it bills itself as the Türk Ocağı (Turkish Hearth). An imposing building accessed up a flight of steps that would once have been right on the waterfront, it contains two floors of information and photographs, none of it sadly translated into English although no one could fail to understand the diorama of Atatürk striking out with his new hat in his hand. At the foot of the steps leading up to the building sits two full-size model boats called “denk kayığı” of the type used to bring the weapons from the ships to the shore.
Enough with the war stories, you may be thinking, and luckily İnebolu has something else to share with its visitors, namely a style of architecture that is peculiarly its own. As you walk along the seafront you will notice two distinct types of wooden buildings squeezed in amid the usual concrete apartment blocks. The first is a fairly standard sort of Black Sea house made of timber that has shaded to a gentle grey over the years but whose roof is covered with shingles to give it that quaint Hansel and Gretel look. The second is much more interesting, being a konak painted the same rust red (“Ottoman rose”) as the original İstanbul yalıs. These particular konaks, though, have window and door frames edged in white, which is not something you see in İstanbul, and thus gives İnebolu its distinction. Inevitably many of these marvelous houses now look the worst for wear and tear. Others, however, have been given a new lick of paint and are now extremely fetching. To see some of the finest konaks head inland along Mustafa Kemal Paşa Caddesi and then upwards along Mehmet Sabri Caddesi -- from here the early evening view out across a series of headlands west of İnebolu is absolutely spectacular.
As elsewhere, the local authorities have wised up to their Ottoman heritage recently, and there is now a large model of a typical rust-red İnebolu house in front of the Belediye (Municipality) building, itself once a madrasah or theological school. Just as in Safranbolu you can also stock up on bedside lamps and fridge magnets in the shape of a local konak -- one of the best places to browse for souvenirs is the small market housed in a series of kiosks near the Yakamoz Tatil Köyü, some of the funding for which came from the European Union.
İnebolu's culture and art festival
The good news is that İnebolu will be celebrating its annual culture and art festival, called the Heyemola Deniz Şenlikleri (Heyemola Sea Festivities), from July 16 to 18 (i.e., next weekend). The program features some fairly standard Turkish pop music, but this will probably be your best opportunity to experience the “heyemola,” a lively local dance for men that has as much to do with acrobatics as fancy footwork (to get an idea pop into that same Türk Ocağı and view the photograph of a past dance as well as a child's toy based on the heyemola).
The even better news is that there's a great place to stay right in town. If the words “tatil köyü” (holiday village) normally strike fear into your heart, evoking an image of the sort of vast all-in-one resorts to be found around Antalya and Kemer, then put all that out of your mind at once because the Yakamoz Tatil Köyü is actually a very pleasant place whose motel-style rooms with balcony overlook a pleasant rose garden and a pebble beach set with loungers. It's all very clean and professionally run, and while the mattresses could do with some upgrading it's the sort of place where you arrive for one night and end up wishing you could stay for a week.
The not so great news for those who rely on buses to get about is that İnebolu is something of a public transport black hole. There are no direct buses here from Sinop, which means that you can end up wasting an inordinate amount of time in the heartsink midway settlement of Türkeli. Worse still, there is only one daily bus west to Cide (for Amasra) and that leaves at 9 a.m. You can, on the other hand, get very easily to Kastamonu following the approximate route used by the weapons smugglers of the early 20th century. This route has been named the Atatürk ve İstiklal Yolu (Atatürk and Independence Way) and is prominently labeled with yellow signposts. The route meanders through Küre, a pretty hill town with some fine whitewashed Ottoman houses and a new Hükümet Konağı designed to imitate them, and passes the Ecevit Hanı, one of the places where the smugglers would have spent the night, which was restored in 2007, before transiting Seydiler to reach Kastamonu. There in the town center a magnificent statue of Atatürk also shows the buffalo carts used to bring the weapons over the Küre Mountains making it a fitting place to end your trip.
Where to stay
Nomad Tours (www.nomadtoursturkey.com) can arrange a home-stay in Yuvacalı as well as sorting out onward travel arrangements for you.
How to get there
The only reasonably quick way to get to İnebolu is by bus from Kastamonu. Public transport along the coast road from Sinop to Amasra is unexpectedly thin -- forget it unless you have a car, basically.
TODAYSZAMAN
Samsun, however, has started playing a great hand by emphasizing its part in the Turkish War of Independence to jazz up its old image as a shabby industrial port. Now İnebolu is getting in on the act, too, making much of its fame as “Yiğit İnebolu (heroic İnebolu),” an epithet bestowed on it by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in memory of the part it also played in the struggle to free Turkey from opportunistic Western invaders.
First things first. Where exactly is İnebolu? Well, it's right on the coast, roughly midway between Sinop and Amasra, and it too is a port, albeit a much smaller one than Samsun. İnebolu's day in the sun came during the War of Independence when arms were smuggled from İstanbul by sea, and then had to be conveyed 95 kilometers overland to Kastamonu. The locals gladly turned their hands to the task, led by one Hamamcı Kadı Salih Reis, an old man in his 70s who nevertheless lugged heavy trunks of weapons ashore along with the women and children. Salih Reis is commemorated by a sea-facing statue right in the middle of town, while he appears again leading a line of heavily laden women in a frieze very close to the local museum. The weapons were then put into carts pulled by water buffaloes to start their long journey over the mountains to Kastamonu; another statue commemorates that process on the road heading up from the bridge across the İnebolu River to the new otogar.
In 1921 İnebolu was itself attacked and put up a sturdy resistance, thus earning itself the “yiğit” title. More than that, though, in 1924 Atatürk awarded the city itself the İstiklal Madalyası (Independence Medal) in memory of its efforts. İnebolu having thus impressed itself upon him, he visited it in 1925 and there made a speech trumpeting his desire that the Turks should modernize their dress, in particular by shedding their fezes in favor of Western-style hats. “Bu serpuşun adına şapka denir” (This type of headgear is called a hat), he said in words that are plastered on signs all over town.
To help visitors get to grips with its modern history İnebolu has opened a museum that is easy for foreign visitors to miss since it bills itself as the Türk Ocağı (Turkish Hearth). An imposing building accessed up a flight of steps that would once have been right on the waterfront, it contains two floors of information and photographs, none of it sadly translated into English although no one could fail to understand the diorama of Atatürk striking out with his new hat in his hand. At the foot of the steps leading up to the building sits two full-size model boats called “denk kayığı” of the type used to bring the weapons from the ships to the shore.
Enough with the war stories, you may be thinking, and luckily İnebolu has something else to share with its visitors, namely a style of architecture that is peculiarly its own. As you walk along the seafront you will notice two distinct types of wooden buildings squeezed in amid the usual concrete apartment blocks. The first is a fairly standard sort of Black Sea house made of timber that has shaded to a gentle grey over the years but whose roof is covered with shingles to give it that quaint Hansel and Gretel look. The second is much more interesting, being a konak painted the same rust red (“Ottoman rose”) as the original İstanbul yalıs. These particular konaks, though, have window and door frames edged in white, which is not something you see in İstanbul, and thus gives İnebolu its distinction. Inevitably many of these marvelous houses now look the worst for wear and tear. Others, however, have been given a new lick of paint and are now extremely fetching. To see some of the finest konaks head inland along Mustafa Kemal Paşa Caddesi and then upwards along Mehmet Sabri Caddesi -- from here the early evening view out across a series of headlands west of İnebolu is absolutely spectacular.
As elsewhere, the local authorities have wised up to their Ottoman heritage recently, and there is now a large model of a typical rust-red İnebolu house in front of the Belediye (Municipality) building, itself once a madrasah or theological school. Just as in Safranbolu you can also stock up on bedside lamps and fridge magnets in the shape of a local konak -- one of the best places to browse for souvenirs is the small market housed in a series of kiosks near the Yakamoz Tatil Köyü, some of the funding for which came from the European Union.
İnebolu's culture and art festival
The good news is that İnebolu will be celebrating its annual culture and art festival, called the Heyemola Deniz Şenlikleri (Heyemola Sea Festivities), from July 16 to 18 (i.e., next weekend). The program features some fairly standard Turkish pop music, but this will probably be your best opportunity to experience the “heyemola,” a lively local dance for men that has as much to do with acrobatics as fancy footwork (to get an idea pop into that same Türk Ocağı and view the photograph of a past dance as well as a child's toy based on the heyemola).
The even better news is that there's a great place to stay right in town. If the words “tatil köyü” (holiday village) normally strike fear into your heart, evoking an image of the sort of vast all-in-one resorts to be found around Antalya and Kemer, then put all that out of your mind at once because the Yakamoz Tatil Köyü is actually a very pleasant place whose motel-style rooms with balcony overlook a pleasant rose garden and a pebble beach set with loungers. It's all very clean and professionally run, and while the mattresses could do with some upgrading it's the sort of place where you arrive for one night and end up wishing you could stay for a week.
The not so great news for those who rely on buses to get about is that İnebolu is something of a public transport black hole. There are no direct buses here from Sinop, which means that you can end up wasting an inordinate amount of time in the heartsink midway settlement of Türkeli. Worse still, there is only one daily bus west to Cide (for Amasra) and that leaves at 9 a.m. You can, on the other hand, get very easily to Kastamonu following the approximate route used by the weapons smugglers of the early 20th century. This route has been named the Atatürk ve İstiklal Yolu (Atatürk and Independence Way) and is prominently labeled with yellow signposts. The route meanders through Küre, a pretty hill town with some fine whitewashed Ottoman houses and a new Hükümet Konağı designed to imitate them, and passes the Ecevit Hanı, one of the places where the smugglers would have spent the night, which was restored in 2007, before transiting Seydiler to reach Kastamonu. There in the town center a magnificent statue of Atatürk also shows the buffalo carts used to bring the weapons over the Küre Mountains making it a fitting place to end your trip.
Where to stay
Nomad Tours (www.nomadtoursturkey.com) can arrange a home-stay in Yuvacalı as well as sorting out onward travel arrangements for you.
How to get there
The only reasonably quick way to get to İnebolu is by bus from Kastamonu. Public transport along the coast road from Sinop to Amasra is unexpectedly thin -- forget it unless you have a car, basically.
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